Stranger in a Familiar Town

Hello Kitty in Spain's main square. Although, maybe here she's Hola Kitty?
I should look into that...

You know, I was under the impression that Spain was... well... foreign. But somewhere between my host sister listening to Beyonce and finding the Disney Channel dubbed in Spanish on TV, I realized that American cultural influence here is much larger than I had foreseen!

I think I've seen this kid with the lightning scar somewhere before...

I'm sure this cultural overlap is directly related to the fact that Madrid is a booming metropolis- there is veritably a "big city" culture that population meccas share. For example, in any given American city you will find McDonald's, taxis, Starbucks, Metros, a movie theater, and Disney influence...

Guess what I've found in Madrid! All of the above!

Winnie the Pooh in the Puerto de Sol

I'd wager that just like Small Town, USA has fought hard to resist Walmart and Starbucks, Pueblo Pequeno, Espana has tried to stay true to its cultural roots as well. I'm certain that if I were studying in Cadiz or Salamanca, I would be having a more Spanish, less international, experience. But on some level, this is really neat. I mean, when was the last time you saw a Spaniard dressed up as Michael Jackson? :)

So I guess the point of this reflection is firstly that American cultural influence abroad is enormous. What would you think of the U.S. if your only impression of it was cinema, Hello Kitty, and Burger King? The media and products we produce are cultural ambassadors permeating every level of the industrialized world... what messages are we sending through these channels?

Starbucks gracing the corner of Madrid's main district

Secondly, when I see the mixing of the Spanish with the American, it reminds me that the mixing of the American with the Foreign is not our own unique "problem." It's merely a consequence of globalization, and a force shaping society today. Citizens the world over are feeling the effects of the Global Melting Pot... this is not a phenomenon any one nationality can hoard. I love my heritage, and I cherish my cultural roots, but I'm beginning to understand that cultural change is not always an attack on the way things were, but rather often a consequence of the way things are and are going to be. If I want to reap the benefits of international experiences- studying abroad, free commerce, cultural diversity- then I need to realize that my own culture and experiences are going to be affected. Not to say that they will be lost, but to say that they will be something I must intentionally and purposefully maintain, rather than something I can access just by stepping out my front door. It is reassuring that this task of "intentional culture" is something that the US will have in common with our neighbors- in an international world, defining and redefining who we are as a nation is a full-time job. But on the bright side, if all else fails, we can always move to Hong Kong. They have a Starbucks there, too. :)

Yes, the plague has spread to Madrid, too

Some Thoughts in an Old Cathedral

Entrance to the Cathedral of Toledo

I hate to be the one to break this to you, but I'm... a philosophy major. Thus, I have this unfortunate habit of, well, thinking. At times I will be forced to subject you to my musings. I promise to do my best to make them worthwhile and interesting musings!

As I was in the Cathedral of Toledo, which is surely one of the most breathtaking treasures of the Western world, I couldn't help but reflect on how beautiful our faith Tradition is! I'll be the first to admit that the members of the Church are not without their faults, especially historical ones (the Spanish Inquisition, anyone?), but there is something compelling and enduring about the fact that the same truths have directed the lives of so many for so long. Why do the moments of the Annunciation, the Birth of Christ, the Passion, and the Resurrection appear to the artist ever-new and full of inspiration? How is it that century upon century painters and sculptors continually find deeper meaning, renewed perspective in their work?

The treasures of the Cathedral stretch beyond the mere structure, which in itself is an impressive collection of statues, carvings, reliefs, and archways. Throughout the Cathedral stained glass, paintings, and tapestries decorate myriad side chapels. The choir is a masterpiece in its own right, ornately decorated with carvings under each wooden seat, depictions of the re-conquista of Granada from the Muslims on the walls, and the lineage of Christ statued about the top. The sacristy has been converted into a museum for sacred art, with portraits of the 12 Apostles and depictions of the Nativity by El Greco, paintings on the ceiling of the Assumption of the Virgin, and various other sacred works. Finally, the fabled Monstrance of Toledo together with an ornately decorated Bible illuminated in gold foil reposes in the Treasury of the Cathedral, although despite its enormous size each year for the feast of Corpus Christi the Monstrance is paraded through the streets in the Spanish custom.

The Cathedral of Toledo was under construction from 1226 until 1493. The beginning of this period falls under the "shadow" of the so-called "Dark Ages", but as I wandered this Cathedral, I was convicted as I have been before... it seems to me a gross simplification to write this period off as a time of cultural death and hibernation! Certainly, the Renaissance was a time of great cultural blossoming, and the efficient transportation and communication amidst the Roman Empire was something to be admired, but there is something to be said for the disposition of a people who would work so diligently, for centuries, to build such a beautiful house of worship. And, God willing, their great workmanship will continue to inspire visitors for centuries to come.

Bonus Photos of Toledo!

Toledo is much more than a Cathedral, and we had a bit of a whirlwind tour during our day there. These pictures were taken at the beautiful Monasterio de San Juan de Los Reyes, which Ferdinand and Isabella built for their entombment. For a reason I have not yet learned, they were subsequently buried elsewhere, but this monastery remains both a place of prayer and a beautiful example of the impact of Moorish design elements in Spanish architecture. Above you have the central courtyard of the Monastery, and if you look very closely, you can even see me in the bottom right corner!



The Moors believed firmly in decorating every possible surface, and as the Muslim religion prohibits depictions of animal or human forms, Arabic decoration thus centers on intricate geometrical designs, and this influence is well evidenced through much of Spain. As you see here, even the ceilings are decorated!


This Moor-influenced style of decoration, Mudejar, was adapted by the Spanish as seen above... the lion in the center of the decoration is the lion of a Spanish royal family.


The hallway surrounding the main courtyard, with its ceiling richly decorated.


Some random building in Toledo... but again, I must comment... how cool is my camera!!!

Toledo: City on a Hill

[Editor's note: some of this information is flagrantly stolen from Wikipedia. Since Wikipedia is not reputable enough to quote in a college paper, I see no reason to cite it here :) ]

Toledo, Spain

This week, my program took a day trip to Toledo. For those of you who, like me, have no concept of the geography of Spain, Toledo is about an hour south of Madrid, easily accessed by bus. After a chaotic half hour of trying to find everyone in the Metro (really, I don't know how people survived without cell phones... this is killing me!), we boarded the bus and were on our way!

Toledo is in the heart of Castilla - La Mancha, the legendary home of Don Quijote, Here, the brave knight sees his beautiful "dulcinea" (Lauren) in a vision!

Patricia, our Directora and Guide Extraordinaire, organized everything wonderfully. When we reached Toledo, we jumped on another bus which wound us carefully up the cobblestone streets of the city until finally we were at the top. Toledo, as you can see for yourself at this lovely link, (sorry, no good shots of the city) is more or less built on a hill, and is surrounded by water on several sides. It has a glorious history of being the capital of the region in many different manifestations- under the Visigoths, the Spanish Empire, and Moors. Particularly, it was heavily influenced by the Jewish, Arabic, and Catholics- a golden period in Spain's history called the "convivencia", aka "living together in peace" was centered here, especially under Alfonso the Wise, who reigned from 1252- 1284. During his reign, Alfonso ordered that Toledo become a center of translation, which further established it as a center of learning and mutual respect among the three cultures.

A beautifully decorated wall in the synagogue built by Muslims,
made for Jews, and overtaken by the Catholics.

With the expulsion of the Jews from Spain under Ferdinand and Isabella in 1492, the peace of Toledo was irrevocably shattered, and when the Muslims were also expelled in 1502, Catholicism became the religion of the entire area. An interesting example of this is the synagogue of Santa Maria la Blanca- a Jewish synagogue which was converted after the expulsion into a Catholic Church. Sadly, decimation or conversion of "heretical" religious places in the name of the Church was all too common in that time, and much cultural richness was purged from the country along with its citizens.

This enormous replica of the Cathedral door is made completely out of marzipan, a sweet bread.
You could buy it and eat it for weeks!!! It's about three feet tall!!!

The actual facade of the Cathedral of Our Lady of Toledo... an impressive and beautiful sight!
(If only the sky would be prettier, and not so drab! :) )

On a personal level, one of the main reasons that I chose to study in Spain was because here, in one country, many cultures have left their mark. Toledo is a beautiful example of this European melting pot... it was striking to see a synagogue converted into a Church, and decidedly Muslim influences throughout much of the art and architecture. In all, Toledo is a breath-taking city on the outskirts of Madrid... if you come to visit me, I'll be sure to take you!!!



Hasta luego,
:) Lauren

Adventures in Gastronomy, 1.0

Hola, amigos!

In order to do any type of justice at all to the Spanish people, I really must rave about their food as often as possible. The downside to this is that (a) you can't taste what I am discussing, and this might make you jealous and (b) it's tres-sketchy to photograph every time I eat at home, much less in restaurants. But for you, my loving family and friends, I will do my best!

So to begin...

Starve, starve, starve... EAT EAT EAT!!!

The first thing that you may note upon arriving in Spain is that they really do not eat breakfast. Despite all of the recent health hoopla about the "most important meal of the day", a true Spaniard will take some coffee, and maybe a "tostada" (aka toast), and this will hold him over until 12 or 2pm. In my humble opinion, this feat of habitual starvation is possible because (a) they are still digesting from dinner last night and (b) many of the younger folk are a bit hung over, but that is just my personal guess. We will see if it still stands at the end of the semester.

By the time the average Madrileno eats for the second time, somewhere around 1pm, the average tourist has died of hunger. But really, this city panders too much to tourists anyway (so many signs in English!), so let them starve. They will survive. My family calls lunch "comida", aka "food", and at least on the weekends it's enormous. I haven't really grasped which meal is supposed to be larger yet, comida or cena (dinner), but let's just suffice it to say that they're both enormous. I might give one up for Lent. These people are crazy!

Finally, "cena" (dinner) is the most astounding of all, as it is eaten around 9 or 11 pm!!! I'm not kidding! 11pm, and Madrilenos eat a sizable dinner! This comes in handy when you want to go out on the weekends, because here the discotheques don't even open until 1am, but on a normal day they mostly eat and go right to sleep! I maintain this is why they don't need breakfast, but truly, it's a remarkable feat, because I have yet to meet a ton of fat Madrilenos, they all look pretty skinny to me!

Secret treasures from a Madrid kitchen

So... let me give you a brief tour through some real gems I have tried in the last few days!

YOGOURTH- aka yogurt, but so much better! It's way thicker, and many times you can purchase it unflavored and add your own sugar on top, which is (a) way healthier and (b) way tastier!

CREMA- vaguely approximate to a creamed soup. I'm not sure what was in it, but I know that there were peas, cream, and other ingredients involved. My host mom is a big fan of the food processor- it makes everything easier!

CROQUETTES- made at home from scratch! Again with the food processor, you beat up a good paste, then fry them in olive oil... so good.

CHOCOLATE CON CHURROS- I mentioned in the previous post, but it bears repeating... bread like funnel cake, with your own cup of chocolate as a fondue!!! (I will totally buy this for anyone who comes to visit me... :) )

Dream of chocolate until we meet again! Adios!

Introducing... my new CAMERA!!!!

Hello, friends!

So, as if the chance to travel for a whole semester wasn't blessing enough, my beloved friends back in the states got together and gave me a very healthy start to buying a wonderful new camera!!!

I would love to show you gorgeous photos of gorgeous Madrid with my gorgeous new camera (get the trend???), but alas... it has been overcast here for my whole stay so far. My host mom assures me this is not normal, so I await the return of the sun! Thus, I will take advantage of how difficult the lighting is to prove how awesome my camera is! Look at these wonderful shots, and many in poor conditions!

MANY THANKS TO ALL WHO CONTRIBUTED TO THIS GREAT GIFT! (You know who you are...)



Food of the day! Lucy posing with Chocolate and churros... SO GOOD. Imagine funnel cake shaped like a stick, and then imagine that they give you your own personal 8oz fondue pot to dip and drink, and they call it "hot chocolate" to try and legitimize it all. If Madrilenos didn't walk so much, they'd all have diabetes... :)



There will be much discussion of food on this blog, and for good reason... Madrilenos are obsessed! Here we have bread baked in the shape of an octopus, hanging in a bread and chocolate store. It's just really neat to see the imagination at work here!



Some of the winding and wonderful streets of Madrid. It's facinating to watch how the materials of different centuries- cobblestone, asphalt, tile- are all interwoven here.

That's all for today... hasta manana!

Observations from an Outsider

Some random notes...

1. Pizza is delivered by motorcycle. How cool is that?
2. Fathers everywhere would love Madrid- turning off the lights when you leave the room is like a religion here!
3. The Amish are the universal symbol of Pennsylvania, apparently. :)
4. Basic Madrid life: eat, walk, eat, walk, eat, walk, eat, sleep, eat, walk...
5. Madrid is very clean and very pretty, but not very green. I'm slowly dying of tree deprivation...
6. No, there are not "preservativos" in your food! (Look it up.)
7. There is something wrong with a 4-story BOOKSTORE in which there are NO BLANK NOTEBOOKS.
8. Imagine if taxi drivers ruled the streets. More or less, this is downtown Madrid.
9. When in doubt, just say the American word with an accent... you're probably right!
10. There are shrimp FULLY INTACT hanging out in my kitchen right now... on the counter... just chillin'... watching the world with their little EYES...

More later. It's so fun immersing in a completely new culture! If anything, I'm only a little disappointed in how Americanized Madrid is- from Starbucks to Mickey Mouse to... no joke... the Disney Channel dubbed in Spanish. Apparently, Michael Jackson was one of their biggest heroes!

!!!BIENVENIDOS A MADRID!!!

We're finally here!!!

A few travel delays notwithstanding, the participants in my program and I have safely arrived in Madrid! We landed about 2pm MaT (Madrid Time... I made it up... just roll with it) and were greeted by Patricia, the director of our program. There are seven students total in my program, AYA Madrid. Six girls and one boy, and he's not even taking classes with the rest of us. Alas! I go from classes full of seminarians to programs full of girls. But... at least my Dad won't be so worried about me finding a Spanish boyfriend... no? :)

Patricia took the whole group out for tapas last night, which was wonderful. In Spain, you can go for tapas (small snacks at the bar) in the afternoon before dinner, in which case you only snack, or you can go at night, in which case you serially go from bar to bar to bar eating and drinking with friends. It's really a neat tradition, but has the interesting side effect of the waiters not being personal at all, which I find really interesting! There's no "Hi, I'm your waiter!" USA pleasantry... it's more like Starbucks efficiency. But, hey, the sangria was amazing... I'm not complaining. :) We had a bread/egg/onion bake and sweet pepper ratatouille... not the real names, but close enough. And very good! I missed the serial dining memo, and ate my fill the first time around, but I won't be making that mistake twice!

After sleeping off our jet lag (really, once you're in the college cycle of all-nighters, jet lag is a much easier feat to overcome), we went out to breakfast with Patricia. Yogurt is so good here! It's unsweetened, and you sprinkle sugar over the top, and it tastes like ice cream, and has way less sugar overall than yogurt in the states! I also had bacon and eggs... it's so nice that chicken eggs are the same the world over! So homey. :)

This afternoon I moved in with my host family. They're wonderful, and I have a room all to myself which I have already covered in photos from home. My host sister is studying English in their equivalent of high school, so hopefully we'll both improve in our language skills! We're eating soon, I'm not sure which meal, but the kitchen smells good!

Toodaloo, all... hasta luego!
:) Lauren

One Week to Go!

Just for the record, in exactly one week I will be in the air, en route to my big adventure! Yipee! :)

Ready, Set, Go!!!

My visa came in the mail, thanks to many prayers and despite some paperwork nightmares! It's really happening, folks! Espana, here I come!!!! :)