You might think otherwise, but that curvaceous Falla is
actually mother nature... welcome to Spain! I think this is a warning about
harming the environment.
So, according to the notoriously trustworthy source, Wikipedia, the tradition of Las Fallas dates back to spring cleaning in the Middle Ages. According to one theory, each spring the local carpenters would clear their wood supply of any wood that was old and rotten, and would burn it to celebrate the equinox, or later, the feast of St. Joseph, patron of carpenters. Today, this tradition has turned into Valencia's largest festival. Each neighborhood sponsors a Falla, a 2-3 story figurine made of paper mache, wood, styrofoam, and who knows what other carcinogens, often designed as a social commentary or a satire. I wish we had had a Spanish friend on hand to explain what each of the Fallas were critiquing, but as it was we had to settle for just admiring their sheer size and creativity.
In case you missed my last post, I noted that the Valencians are all pyromaniacs. So, obviously, nothing brings their communities together faster than setting 25-foot statues on fire!
Don't let the perspective throw you... these things are enormous... up to 30 feet...
In the most impressive community ritual I have seen in a long time, each neighborhood gathers in the local square, where their Falla is awaiting cremation. Several firefighters are on hand, to ensure that nothing goes awry, or "no pasa nada", as they are fond of saying here. Whole families are here, from young to old, and if the 2-year old happens to be screaming because he is scared to death of all the explosions, well... he'll get used to it. He has to learn at some point- he's Valencian!
To start off the festivities, a whole ensemble of fireworks are set off, in a proximity to people and buildings which would bring immediate lawsuits in the US. The whole time, the firefighters are hosing down the nearby buildings so that nothing catches. It becomes a game as the local pre-teens chant "agua!" "agua!", and occasionally the firefighters squirt the crowd, much to the dismay of anyone over the age of 25.
A traditionally-dressed woman called a "Fallera" "sets" the figure on fire, and by that I mean that she ceremonially lights a match and the firefighters actually light it. Thank Heavens some Spanish man grabbed me and pushed me back when it was lit- I was expecting a long fuse, but no! Silly me! It was a string of firecrackers, and by the time I knew what was happening, things were exploding and on fire and there were fireworks and the people were cheering!
It takes about 20 minutes for the Falla to burn completely, and it is an impressive sight- the heat from the fire, the water occasionally soaking the crowd, the cheers of the people as big chunks fall, and the explosion of a few final fire crackers. It would be so illegal in the US, but it is so cool- I have never seen anything like it in my entire life!
Like any good American, I stood there and hummed "America the Beautiful" :)
After the burning, we got a picture with the Fallera lady, which is on someone else's camera- stay posted. :) After this "local" Falla, we ran to the main plaza, where the "city" Falla was being similarly destroyed, although with many more pyrotechnical tricks and treats. In all, I'm surprised I can still hear, and I'm thankful that we didn't die, but it was so worth it! In one night, we saw perfectly the spirit of the Valencian people, and it's not something that we're likely to forget anytime soon.
This is pre-fire lighting. The Falla we watched was a small, neighborhood affair. It cuts off at the end- sadly you miss excellent footage of the world erupting in firecrackers and me screaming and jumping back 15 feet!
The Falla (finally) burning. Sorry you don't see it initially go up- I was literally so frightened that I didn't see it either! I was too busy jumping backwards!
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